Choosing Your Tank:
Location:
The first thing you should do before anything is decide where you want your tank. It should be away from direct sunlight to prevent excessive algae growth and heat. The tank should also be away from heavy trafficked areas. It is also a really good idea to locate the tank near the water source you are going to use for water changes.
Glass or Acrylic:
Glass aquariums are several panes of glass that are held together with silicone and a plastic frame. Their main advantage is that they are cheaper than acrylic tanks. Another advantage is that they are quite hard to scratch. The biggest disadvantage of a glass tanks is that they are more vulnerable to impact breakage.
Acrylic tanks are plastic sheets that are chemically welded together. The welds are permanent and will not break if properly bonded. Acrylic tanks have the advantage of being more transparent than glass. There are lot more options for shapes when you choose acrylic. Acrylic's main flaw is that it scratches a lot easier than glass. The tank itself is very expensive and the equipment required to set it up will also cost you.
Shape:
Fish tanks come in all shapes and sizes. The most common types are the rectangle and the bow shaped. The classic rectangle shape is by far the cheapest and easiest to find equipment for. Acrylic tanks can be made in about any shape as long as you have the funds.
Size:
The old saying is that bigger is better and that is almost certainly true for fish tanks. A big tank is much easier to care for than a small tank. It also gives you many more options for fish stocking. Operating costs are actually cheaper for a large aquarium.
Big aquariums do have some downfalls though. They can get quite heavy. A single gallon of water weighs right around 8.3 pounds. Do the math and a 55 gallon tank weighs over 456 pounds in water alone! The start-up costs for building a big tank are also higher because of equipment costs.
Pick Your Fish Type:
Fresh Water:
Freshwater tanks are the best option for beginners. The main parameters you need to watch are PH, ammonia, nitrates (NO3) and nitrites (NO2). You will really only have worry about the latter 3 if your local water has a stable PH. Most freshwater fish prefer a temperature of 75-79F.
Salt Water:
Salt water tanks are probably the hardest of any tank to set up. Just think of trying to contain the ecosystems of the ocean in a tank!
Brackish Water:
Brackish water tanks have all the complexities of a freshwater tank with the addition of salinity.
Goldfish:
Goldfish are a freshwater fish, but they require more work than your average fish. These are a cold water fish that don't require a heater but may need a chiller if you live somewhere warm. They are extremely messy when compared to other fish. You can't use the 1 inch per gallon rule and must have extra filtration. A minimum tank size of 29 gallons is needed just for one fancy goldfish. Common goldfish are a beast of their own with an adult size of 12 or more inches. They should be left to very large tanks or ponds.
Make A Stocking List:
The first thing you should do is get some water conditioner and test your local tap water. Your test results will determine what fish you should be able to house easily. It is possible to alter your parameter to keep more finicky fish but should be avoided until you learn the ropes of basic fish keeping.
I suggest you find a favorite fish within your parameters and build from there. Compatibility is more than just friendliness. An aquarium can be broken down to several swimming levels: top, middle and bottom. Each level of your aquarium should be balanced. Even friendly community fish will become aggressive if you overcrowd a level. The 1 inch per gallon rule works well for basic freshwater fish. You should use a 29 gallon minimum for goldfish with 10 inches per additional goldfish.
Create A List Of Equipment:
Stand:
This is the foundation of your whole set up and is very important. Existing 'sturdy' furniture should be able to hold a tank of 10 gallons or less. Any tank larger than that should be put on stand specifically built for aquariums. Aquarium stands usually are made of metal or wood.
Metal stands blend in well with modern furniture. Most metal stands come powder coated or painted to prevent rusting. It is still a good idea to clean up any water spills. Consumer grade metal stands tend to cost less than their wood counterparts. Your only strength issue should be the welds. An experienced welder should be able to build a stand fairly easily.
Wood stands can be just as good as metal stands if they are built well. Wood stands pair well with other wooden furniture. Their biggest flaw comes in their construction. Many consumer grade stands are made of particle board that will degrade with water exposure. ALWAYS wipe any spills on a wooden stand. If you have some basic carpentry skills you can custom build your own wood stand for really cheap.
Lights:
There are a wide range of lights available. Don't go for the biggest and baddest if you just keep regular tropical or goldfish in a non-planted fish. It's a waste of money and all lights burn out eventually no matter how well built. However, go for a really nice light if you are setting up or planning to go for a planted tank.
Fluorescent tube lights tend to be the cheapest lights at initial purchase. They provide a ton of light and are great for planted tanks with the right spectrum tube. You normally only have to replace the tubes every few months. I've had a mixed bag with them. My 55g and 29g kits both came with fluorescent tubes. The 55g one had a ballast burn out within three months, but the 29g light only burned out a tube after a whole year. It worked fine after a new bulb from Wal-mart's hardware department. Never buy your replacement tubes from a pet store if you like money. The main issue with florescent lights is they usually get very warm to hot and use more electricity than LED's. Go for these if you don't mind the heat or increased electric bill.
LED lights provide quite a punch for a minimal amount of power. They typically cost more than your everyday fluorescent tube light at purchase. They will save you money in the long run with lower electric bills. The higher end ones have some amazing features built into them. Features range from weather effects, daytime cycle, moonlight and color adjustment. Avoid buying ones with a built in timer because it is just something else to break. Also don't buy cheaper LED's for planted tanks unless you want a brown thumb. My parents Marineland came with cheap LED lite hood. It is perfect for the fish, but I doubt it would even support the lowest light plant. LED's are nice because they produce very little heat. The main flaw with most LED's is that once they burn out you must replace the whole light. My LED's are doing great, but my parents did have their LED's moonlight feature break. These are my personal favorites so far in my short time of fish keeping.
Hoods & Tops
There are a few options for hoods and tops. Open top is the cheapest because you buy nothing! A glass or acrylic lid is the second cheapest option. A plastic hood is what normally comes with kits that have fluorescent tubes. Some of the more obscure ones are metal mesh and egg crate. You can always include a decorative wooden top for most aquariums, but will still need a regular top below it.
Open top is a great option if you don't need lights or can suspend a light way above the tank. Don't ever put a light directly above an open top tank! Lights are water resistant, but not even close to water-proof. You can make an amazing planted tank with the plants growing up and out of the top of the tank. An open top tank is acceptable for African Clawed Frogs and aquatic turtles but watch out! I lost my big girl, Hops, when she ironically hopped out of the top of the aquarium. She was alive, but I was not able to save her after being out of the tank so long. Many fish are also known to be jumpers so do your research before you go this route. Honestly, I would use a metal mesh top for turtles and a plastic egg crate for African Clawed Frogs.
A plastic hood is more than likely what you will start with if you buy a kit. They look very old school, but they do get the job done. They are actually pretty nice because of their ease of access to feed and remove stuff. The pivot points on most of them are durable enough to hold up to everyday use. Thee clear plastic on these is fairly easy to clean with a fresh paper towel. Stick with a plastic hood if you want durability and don't mind old school looks.
Glass let lots of light through. Glass tops are cheaper than plastic hoods and easy to assemble. You can buy them online or at any local fish store. The biggest flaw to them is that it is glass, so breaking can be an issue. I doubt your glass top will explode when sitting on your tank, but be careful where you sit the glass when you are cleaning. It is also the heaviest of all tops you can get. Most hardware stores offer free glass and acrylic cutting so it is easy to make your own. Just make sure to measure twice before cutting. Glass is easily cleaned with vinegar. Don't worry about the vinegar getting into the tank because at minute levels it won't do anything to PH. The main benefit to glass is it is cheap.
Acrylic tops are also great for letting tons of light through. I've always been told acrylic lets more light through than glass. Acrylic tops are the norm on acrylic tanks, but you can easily pull one off on most tanks. Most hardware stores offer free acrylic cutting so it is easy to make your own. Just make sure to measure twice before cutting. It tends to run a little higher than glass. Acrylic's main flaw is it scratches very easily. Be very careful when cleaning it. Don't use a really hot light near one either because it can cause micro cracking and warping. Over a long distance acrylic will bow so it won't work on long spans such as a 40g breeder with no brace. The main benefit is you won't have to worry about acrylic shattering if you accidentally step on your top when cleaning. Both glass and acrylic give your tank a sleek look.
Heater:
Heaters come in a wide range of wattage and materials. Glass heaters are the most common and will work well in tanks with smaller fish. Bigger fish can break them and give you a 'fish fry'. Glass are also the most friendly on the wallet. Metal heaters do cost a bit more, but they will protect your fish from electrocution. Most are unbreakable and many have an auto off in case of a low water level. My number one tip is to make sure you unplug the heater when cleaning. Glass heaters can explode and some metal ones will break if turned on in open air. If you don't mind the money then go with two smaller heater in a bigger tank. The temperature will stay more consistent and your fish will last longer if one heater fails. Only buy as big of a heater as you need!
Air Pump / Bubbler (Optional):
Air pumps are mostly just for aesthetics. They do provide extra aeration of the water, but not a whole lot. Make sure to run an air pump at night if you have a heavily planted tank. Plants 'breathe' C02 at night when photosynthesis isn't going. Your fish might have trouble breathing if the C02 levels get too high.
Decor:
Substrate:
Substrate is a nice feature for a tank, but not necessary. Most fish will live fine without it and you will get the added benefit of easy cleaning.I personally like having something other than tank frame to look at so I always go with sand or gravel. A benefit to substrate is good bacteria will grow in the substrate and help process fish waste.
Gravel is great for most fish, but watch out for tanks with bigger fish. They can eat the gravel and choke on it. My parents had a goldfish nearly choke and die! It is easy to shuffle around and clean the dirt in between it with a gravel vacuum.
Sand works well for all fish and is really good for a planted tank. You can easily seal in a 'dirt' layer under the sand for a planted tank. Don't worry about fish eating the sand because it will pass right through them most of the time. Sand is available really cheap as pool filter sand or you can splurge by buying a wide variety of colors. Make sure you wash sand really well before putting it in the tank or you can ruin filters. Pool filter sand is the hardest to clean, but you know what they say, "You get what you pay for."
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